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Bigwall climbing in Greenland

14. August 2023
Uncategorized

I finally dug through those hundreds of photos from our last expedition to Greenland in the Tasermiut Fjord area. In a nutshell, climbing-wise it was a blast. One big bag. But losses and failures are the best way to move you forward. I knew I would be pulling the short end of the stick on this expedition but I didn’t know it would be this far. The guys have found significantly more spares. I drew my recollective optimism from Yosemite and Chamonix. It turned out not to be enough. However, it was a proper adventure. There was no shortage of whales, fantastic Greenland scenery and a prefect group. And that’s the main reason we go to the mountains. Isn’t it?

We’re taking a helicopter to Nanortalik.
Nanortalik.
We load onto the boat that will take us to Tasermiut Fjord under our bigwalls.
On the way we watch whales in the fjord.
There is our goal. The Wall of Ulamentorssuaq and the path of War and Poetry for 5.12c. I’m starting to thin out 🙂
Here is Ulamentorssuaq in its full glory. Almost 1000m of vertical granite.
We’re unloading stuff on the shore.
The bridge was taken by water so we have to climb.
The first meal overlooking the wall.
The tent will be our home for the next few weeks. It’s a luxury because we have a table with benches in the front room and we can stand up in the tent.
Climb the Ketil Pyramid Swiss Way for 5.10a. Just pure pleather.
Matej pulls the first lengths.
Climbing with a view of Tasermiut Fjord.
A beautifully sloping granite sea. Below the fjord and where the river flows into the sea is our tent.
The pure joy of climbing 🙂
The peak is approaching.
A leisurely stroll on the shingle overlooking Ulamentorssuaq.
Stano disappears into the cage.
Stano decided to climb up without. Above him a beautiful hand jam spar.
The view from the top overlooks the entire fjord and the mainland glacier in the background.
Matej reaches the top
Stano and Ketil in the background.
Nalumasortoq.
Highlight.
It’s time to go fishing.
Unbelievable view right from the tent.
We set off on the Nalumasortoq to the British road for 5.12d
View of the fjord during embarkation.
This is our goal.
Bivouac under the wall so we could get up early in the morning.
Morning ascent under a wall of snow.
The climbing starts off rough. Right from the first step vertical to overhanging spars for 5.11+
We’re fighting.
Steep climbing in spars.
Matej as our best sparer crushes. However, in 7 length after about 9 hours of climbing we find that we can’t even make it to the bivouac in a reasonable time. So we retreat down.
Matej and his fish. Catching fish we properly improve our diet.
The batteries need to be recharged. Yet, that I forgot at home the charging cable for the satellite phone
Two days of rain came and it snowed on the mountain.
Proper catches for lunch.
Mosquitoes and flies are a separate chapter. You need to have a net with a hat or you will lose your mind.
Incredible scenery Ulu.
Our assault on Ulamentorssuaq begins. We’re taking out material.
The first day we climb 6 lengths and pull up there hog. We leave the markers and rappel down to the bivouac.
Pulling the cricket over the double pulley. Yummy…
The beginning of the journey is peaceful.
Granite infinity in the wall of Ulamentorssuaq.
So far we are not lacking motivation. Let’s hang up the pig and go down to the bivouac.
Morning at the bivouac. Stano snored first league and I didn’t sleep at all.
We’re scratching the end of the markers and climbing on. I’m pulling the opening lengths for 5.10a/b That would still do 🙂
The boys are climbing up to the standard.
We are moving our pig closer to the “heart”. That’s the name of the formation in the middle of the wall where our bivouac is.
Matej crushes Greenland spars. We send him to all the difficult lengths and he throws himself into them with immense motivation.
Marching on the shield.
Matej and the granite sea.
Surety on the shield.
Matthias and the “heart” above him. I expect a luxurious bivvy shelf in 15 length. I have no idea how wrong I am.
It’s starting to drizzle. If it starts to rain we are equipped…
A heavy spade in 15 lengths under the “heart”. Matej goes technically.
The bivouac is uncomfortable and max for two. We do not have a portal ledge. Bad luck.
Stano can make himself comfortable anywhere. I suffer and I slide into the wall all night and hang in my seat. I don’t sleep all night and the motivation is fading.
Morning after the bivouac. Stano cool, Matej as so and me to mush.
We don’t want to get out of our sleeping bags.
We weigh our options and decide to retreat. Of the three, I’m the most broken so we go down. Stano doesn’t hide his disappointment.
My fingers got a workout.
After a few days the French expedition arrives and after 2 weeks the Czech-Slovak expedition. The party cannot be missed. We feed ourselves with kilos of caught fish.
Hectares of forest are burning in Canada and Greenland is up in smoke.
The boys decided to give it a second try in the British road to Nalumasortoq. I decide for a long time whether to let them go in pairs. In the end I decide not to go with them. In a pair they have a significantly better chance of making it down. Out of the three of us, I am the weakest in spurs. You have to make decisions based on rationality and put your ego aside. At least I’m helping them get the stuff under the wall.
The boys are crushing it in British.
Around 8:00 they climb down to the bivouac on Banana ledge in 15 length.
Sunset at Banana ledge.
Matej and Stano climbed Nalumasortoq in two days. The hardest lengths they gave technically. Danny and Peter from the Czech team give the OS route also in two days. Brutal performance. These are the Adršpach climbers 🙂
Our team 🙂
It’s time to pack up and go home. Henrik arrives on his boat to take us back to Nanortalik.
3 teams on the kickoff. Czechs, Slovaks and French 🙂
See you next time 🙂
Last glimpses of Ulu.
Flight home and views of Greenland.
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